Have a whale of a time in Victoria, Canada’s great overlooked city

It’s my first morning in Victoria, British Columbia, and I’m in need of coffee. And, apparently, a life lesson from the barista.

I had been about to default to Dublin speed – to grab and go, to wander and sip – but he’s right. I’m in Canada. I can slow down.

That’s not to say Victoria is sleepy. Far from it. It might be compact – the week’s running gag is that everything is always, “Oh, about 15 minutes away” – but, as BC’s capital and with the beautiful Parliament Building dominating views of Downtown (particularly illuminated at night), there’s an obvious energy here, a vast number of independent businesses and a steady flow of people arriving via seaplanes, ferries and cruise ships.

While there are many more flags on display than there were even two weeks ago – for obvious tariff-based reasons – Victoria remains relaxed and friendly: on early morning walks, many people bid me good morning.

Essentially, it’s a very lovely place to spend a few days. You might have considered it as worth a couple of days detour from Vancouver, or even Seattle – it’s a mere 100km from both – or as part of a tour around beautiful Vancouver Island, but Victoria is a destination in its own right.

As its name suggests, there’s a lot here for history (and architecture) buffs. Happily, there’s also information galore, through the splendid Royal BC Museum and several public displays, on the region’s indigenous history, which long predates a tribute to a British monarch.

Victoria is also very pretty – it’s nicknamed The Garden City – with multiple open spaces and numerous parks. You’re never far from a view of the water or, on a clear day, the mighty Olympic mountains on the horizon.

It’s a short drive to even more jaw-dropping scenery.

The views of the Saanich Inlet from the Malahat Skywalk are breathtaking, and a walk through the surrounding forest soothes the soul.

If you prefer things more landscaped, the Butchart Gardens are 55 acres of horticultural magnificence.

Even if rose gardens and stylised Japanese gardens aren’t your thing, it’s hard not to be impressed by the fact this is a remarkable conversion of a limestone quarry.

There’s also surprising nature to be found in the city. I spend a blissful few minutes watching great blue herons building nests in Beacon Hill Park and saw otters while walking into town from my first hotel, the Delta Ocean Pointe.

My second hotel – the city’s “Castle on the Coast”, the Fairmont Empress – offers five-star comforts, a legendary afternoon tea, plus a marmot called Roger that lives very happily in the hotel’s bee-friendly garden. At certain times of the year you might also spot orcas in the Inner Harbour.

As well as being seen as Canada’s brunch capital, Victoria, remarkably, has the highest number of restaurants per capita in Canada (and second in North America behind San Francisco).

If you don’t have time to graze the city’s food or growing craft beer scene, a good shortcut is A Taste of Victoria Tours, with Andy Olson sharing his deep knowledge of the city in terms of history, architecture and great things to eat and drink.

He might also be accompanied by his father, who adds some gleefully terrible dad jokes into the mix.

If you do have time to graze, there are many good things to discover.

They get two pigs every Monday, which they then turn into impeccable schnitzel, bratwurst and charcuterie

The region’s microclimate means there are numerous farms nearby supplying restaurants with local produce.

And they’re not just outside the city. Fed Urban Agriculture uses a patch of land between tower blocks from where, with the help of an e-bike and a washing machine converted to a Heath Robinson-esque salad spinner, they can deliver produce to a handful of Victoria restaurants within three hours of picking.

This notion of doing things right extends across the city. At the German-inspired Eva Schnitzelhaus, I’m informed they “get two pigs every Monday”, which they then turn into impeccable schnitzel, bratwurst and charcuterie.

At Ugly Duckling, chef Corbin Mathany takes perhaps less appealing ingredients and turns them into something elegant, while Finest At Sea – a semi-permanent food truck near the floating, Popeye-esque, Fisherman’s Wharf – does simple and delicious things to the region’s achingly fresh seafood.

Rabbit Rabbit sees chef Billy Nguyen – a star of TV’s Top Chef Canada – combine the local larder, his classical training, Asian influences and, err, a London childhood in cross-cultural delicious crowd-pleasers, such as lasagne with miso and gochujang bolognese, while Janevca’s chef Andrea Alridge is doing glorious wood-fired things in a remarkable boutique hotel setting.

At a simpler level, Spinnaker’s – the first brew pub in Canada – does elevated things to pub grub, while Virtuous Pie offers impressive plant-based pizza.

I must also mention Better Acres, where founder Lori Joyce is serving what is genuinely some of the best (and proudly full-fat) ice cream I’ve ever tasted.

I’d apologise to the city’s vegans, but they get Be Love, and that’s quite a win anyway.

While locals might, self-deprecatingly, wonder why you’re there, it’s very hard not to fall for Victoria’s many charms.

The barista had a point: if you get the chance, you really should stop and enjoy it.

Get there

Air Canada has resumed its popular seasonal service between Dublin and Vancouver, with return economy fares from €593, including taxes and charges. The new increased schedule offers up to five weekly flights, an increase from three in previous years. aircanada.com

Delta Hotels by Marriott Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort is a swish waterfront hotel on Victoria’s Inner Harbour, a short walk from Downtown (and attractions such as the Royal BC Museum and Parliament Building). Expect neutral tones and contemporary furnishings in the rooms, with harbour or skyline views.

The Fairmont Empress is something of a landmark hotel in Victoria, with chateau-esque architecture showcasing steep roofs, turrets and gables. Inside are sophisticated interiors that mix old with new, and a restaurant that serves dishes inspired by the Pacific northwest.

For more on Victoria, see destinationcanada.com